When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally shocked.
“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.
It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.
Liam Verhoeven is a digital content curator who scours the web for the most engaging reels and videos.